Surreal. That's the first and undoubtedly the most accurate word I used to describe the experience of being in the South African bush. Of the 1300 photos we captured while staying at Singita, we narrowed it down to these 147 and I'm sure there are many more worthy of sharing but didn't quite make the cut. I assure you, this will be the longest photo album of the mini-series.
As you can observe from the first blog post (Arrival), the Boulders Lodge property is set out in the wilderness. There are dirt roads, paths, and crossings as well as an airstrip 10 minutes from the Lodge, but other than that, it’s in isolation. This fact became clearly evident when only after an hour of checking in to our #7, two mammoth Kudu moseyed down the embankment shaping the outdoor shower, grazing on the tall African grasses in their paths. Alright, this is the real deal. Confirmed. To clarify the title of this post for the uninitiated, "The Big Five" refers to the five most dangerous animals to hunt in the African bush. They are: Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, Rhino, and Elephant. Of course, most safaris these days aren't about hunting, rather just tourism, recreation, and photography. And as all safari-goers hope, we were lucky enough to see each of the big five, live!
Quite often, the first animals you'll observe on a South African safari are Impala, a smaller breed of Antelope featuring a gorgeous amber coat.

They survive in numbers, and they are visible everywhere, morning and night. Only 15 minutes into our first game drive, we encountered a small crash of White Rhinos but we weren’t lucky enough to spot any of the more rare Black Rhinos through the course of the trip. The same crash popped up a few times throughout our drives.

We also came upon a sizable herd of Buffalo creeping toward a pond for a sundowner; maybe 50 or so. Although they are a member of the “big five,” they appear comically harmless, rolling in the mud and accidentally grabbing giant wads of sloppy earth on their horns.

Moving on from the Buffalo watering hole, a tower of Giraffes intersected our road, slowly yet swiftly making their way through the bush with steady, massive strides. Giraffe turned out to be Candice's favorite animal on the trip...you'll have to ask her why.


On our first AM game drive the vehicle crept through the misty, foggy Sand River and observed a small bloat of Hippopotamuses. The river is quite shallow during the winter months, whereas during the summer (rainy season), it can be quite roaring.

The first big "wow" moment occurred shortly thereafter. JD informed us a pride of lions remained on the property after killing a buffalo the day before, so we pursued them hoping to catch a view of the kill. After a short venture into the bush, the vehicle slowed and we approached the entire pride, most of them sleeping, but a few up and about. To our amazement (and a bit of nausea), we found a young male, flanked by his whole pride, gnawing, crunching, and licking on the desolate formation of a buffalo carcass. Pretty much all that remained were the bones, ribs, a leg, lungs, and teeth.
The vehicle and guests paused sitting stationary for a while, observing these giant cats take turns gnawing on the carcass. As the sun slowly rose, the lions shifted positions to avoid baking in the emerging heat. Before we knew it, the vehicle was completely surrounded by the eight members of the pride and momentarily, we were literally stuck. After perhaps 30 minutes, the young male decided to relocate the buffalo carcass, out of the sun and out of the view of the lingering, opportunistic vultures. The sheer power required of the cat to move that thing by himself was awesome.
Once the pride rearranged and provided an exit path, we moved on to the rarest and most fortunate sighting of the entire safari: an entire den of African Wild Dogs. For several weeks, the area guides tracked the pack from a distance, all hoping the dogs would den on their property. As fortune would have it, the pack denned on the Singita property, giving the Singita guests first viewing rights. As the dogs selected a fantastically safe den location, reaching the den required JD to veer well off the vehicle path and into some intensely thick bush on the edge of a steep ravine. High with excitement, JD inched the vehicle as close as possible to the den, nearly tipping the whole deal over and down to into the ravine. "This is terrible," Phanuel warned before JD chuckled and calmly reversed us out of danger. When we arrived, we were treated to a mini-jackpot of African wildlife, viewing a pack of 10-13 critically endangered dogs. Scientific estimates place the total population at about 2000 in the world.
Upon our arrival, JD immediately pointed the alpha female was feeding the pups with regurgitated food from a recent kill; a kill likely made within the last few hours. Another adult female, the beta female, and her pups accompanied the alphas in the den. JD explained it was somewhat rare for an alpha female to allow a beta female to mate and raise pups in the same pack and den. Typically she, and she alone runs the show. But given the gravitas of their survival, you have to wonder if they know the longevity of their species is on the line. A truly amazing sight for us to witness first hand.
Retreating from the den of African Wild Dogs, we cruised past a dazzle of Zebras co-mingling with an implausibility of Wildebeest. I'm using only the scientifically correct terms (per JD) for each group of animals, you should know. Zebra and Wildebeest often roam together as their diets are are similar. The most widely accepted scientific theory explaining a zebra's stripes is that the stripes create a dizzying, kaleidoscopic effect when the dazzle is fleeing from a predator on the hunt. The predator is more likely to become disoriented and unable to zero in on an individual Zebra. That said, nobody knows for sure, and we will likely never know.
After returning from the action packed AM game drive, we decided to do some souvenir shopping at the Singita shop situated half way between the Boulders Lodge (ours) and the Singita Ebony lodge. The shop is more accurately described as a boutique selling with safari gear (vests, hats, blankets), jewelry, beautifully crafted high end furniture, and more.
Kobus placed a request on the radio and a porter arrived to drive us the 2 minutes. We didn’t end up buying anything, but on the way back, sitting at the base of a tree on the side of the road was a gorgeous female adult leopard. What an incredible looking cat; coat shining in the unimpeded afternoon sunlight. The porter/driver stopped the truck for us to observe. The only problem was: I DIDN’T BRING THE CAMERA! Why would I ever think I need the camera on what is literally a ninety second drive to the store??!! Total safari fail, but I assured myself we would have other opportunities to view Leopard so I brushed it off and put myself at ease. We'd only taken two drives so we had much to look forward to.
Turns out, the leopards creeping around the property during our three night stay felt the need to be in stealth mode. JD (the Guide) indicated he hadn’t seen a Leopard for 10 straight days and nights which is quite a rare dry spell. After we told JD about the mid-day sighting on the way to the store, he was hell bent on tracking down a leopard for our group; more specifically, the elusive female leopard who slyly appeared for us while I was unprepared.
I relayed this story to JD, and on the following PM game drive, he and Phanuel went to work. The video clip from the previous blog post is our immediate departure from the lodge to track and spot her. The guides and trackers use a number of factors in order to locate various animals on the vast property. As I mentioned, the guides from several lodges communicate via radio and provide updates. General intuition is at play when thinking about each animal’s typical movements each day. The trackers are able to identify each native animal’s tracks in the sand and approximate a general direction and time of movement. And of course, if you’re tracking a predator, you observe the behavior of its prey.
Phanuel and JD collectively put us right in her general proximity. This was obvious because the Impalas in the area were barking their alarm calls, communicating to each other the imminent presence of danger. We were in pursuit of a leopard on the hunt. You can hear the alarm calls in this short video (sorry about the "back of the head" action in this one):
In these instances, tracking from two spots is better than one. Phanuel hops down from his seat, pulls the rifle from its case, and clips a portable radio to his belt. He glances down at the tracks in the road, looks up shading his eyes from the sun, and then turns back at the guests in the vehicle. “See you,” he says.
JD advances the vehicle in the opposite direction and we cruise around, all the guests eager to get this done! The pursuit lasts a good 45 minutes, impalas alarm calling all over the place, but despite all our efforts, we weren't able to locate her. We rendezvoused with Phanuel and resumed our game drive. We circled her location several times and were so unlucky to not view a kill as she was definitely hunting. So close, yet so difficult to spot when they want to hide.
Almost as soon as we pulled out of the immediate vicinity, defeated, a breeding herd of 20 some elephants slowly emerged from a tree line into our clearing. As they lumbered through, JD rattled off an inspired plethora of interesting facts: 22 month gestation period and 20 hours a day spent eating were the highlights. Additionally, elephants are pretty much the only animal in the South African bush that can die naturally due to their size; even the fiercest predators don’t attempt to down an adult Elephant.
As I mentioned in the last post, the tracker’s skills really shine (no pun intended) after dark during night spotting. Depending on your game sightings in the day light, the night spotting typically is typically done during the last 45 minutes of the PM drive. On one drive, Phanuel spotted a gorgeous owl. Another, a tiny black scorpion. But the most amazing piece of night spotting skill came when Phanuel spotted a chameleon perched in the low hanging branches of a tree on the side of the road. Mind you, the vehicle is moving at maybe 15 MPH and Phanuel is moving a single flood light left to right, up to down in search of these night creatures. His ability to spot a single chameleon near the ground in pitch black was wildly impressive.
The AM game drive on the second to last day was on the slower side with one notable exception. JD transported us over to a known den of spotted hyenas.

Hyenas, being nocturnal creatures, are seldom seen in broad daylight. But on our arrival at the den site, we pulled into direct view of a mother hyena, snoozing at the base of the den with two pups, alternating between moments of play and rest while circling, ascending, and descending the dusty mound of earth they know as home.
In between the AM and PM game drives on our second to last day, Candice and I decided to flop ourselves down on the house patio and close our eyes for a short outdoor nap. A troop of nine or 10 monkeys had other (spiteful) ideas. One by one they appeared, first emerging in the tree directly above the outdoor shower, then seemingly from every corner of the property. And these little suckers are not shy about their desires: 1) food, 2) beverage, and 3) gaining entry to the house in pursuit of 1 and 2. One moment I'm lounging on the porch, pondering our glorious accommodation, enjoying a fine, cold, golden can of Castle Lager, the next moment Candice is whipped up in a fever of panic, pleading with me to return to the safe confines of the house. I got a couple of (crappy) photos and then acquiesced, slinking back inside to capture these videos:
On our final go round, a morning drive, we revisited the same pride of lions previously finishing off the buffalo. As it was first thing in the morning, they were just winding down their night and getting ready to rest. If you know cats and their behaviors and tendencies, it won't surprise you at all to read they were lounging, playing, and otherwise jacking around, like these dimwits attempting to ascend a small tree:
While viewing the pride, JD received some promising cat spotting news on the radio: one of the other guides had solidly located two leopard cubs on the property and marked the general vicinity on the road with a small fallen branch. Ever persistent, JD prioritized this for us. It was our last shot, so he and Phanuel got after it. The other guide located the cubs near a dry river bed, so we cruised up and down, backwards and forwards while Phanuel tracked on foot. After encircling the area two or three times, we thought to ourselves we were surely outmaneuvered once again. The vehicle proceeded up the hill and halted to collect a half-smirking Phanuel. "There," he said, pointing down at a male leopard cub laying in a thick area of grass about 10 feet away, "Now the pressure's off." Even after pointing him out, it took the guests several seconds to lock on to this beautiful creature with our naked eyes. Being a young little dude, the cub was not entirely comfortable with the presence of the vehicle, and as such, picked up and trotted off a few times, but even though we were somewhat antagonizing him, JD assured us the cub was better off getting accustomed to the vehicle and learning it introduced no harm. Due to the leopard's stealthy modus operandi, our photos of him aren't the best, but we captured what we could.
To avoid unnecessarily distressing the cub, we bid farewell and pulled away. JD parked the vehicle on the edge of a valley for a coffee and cake break. Gazing out across the valley, a solitary giraffe stood out among the trees. In a nearby clearing, a troop of Baboons frolicked about. Knowing we were soon to depart from this most incredible piece of the earth, we made every effort to absorb it all one last time.
Upon return, many people asked me, "what was the singular coolest thing you saw while down on safari?" The intent of this question is undoubtedly to keep my answer brief, most certainly the antithesis of this blog series. My answer would be something about our proximity to the wildlife. I couldn't possibly imagine we'd be able to park a Land Rover literally in the middle of a pride of Lions feeding on a Buffalo kill without fearing for our lives. While I took a good number of the photos with a 55-200mm zoom lens, it doesn't subtract from the immediacy of the experience.
Up next, the magnificent little Western Cape wine district named Franschhoek!
Interested in more information about travel to South Africa? Click Here
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“You can sleep when you get to Cape Town.” – Kobus, Singita Boulders Lodge host, aka the magic hospitality sprite
9:30 or 10:00 am to 11:00 am – We return to the lodge for our “real” breakfast out on the terrace. By now the sun has warmed the humans and our environs to an adequately comfortable state. Sometimes couples elect to dine with each other, sometimes the guides join in for the meal, sometimes couples maintain their privacy. One morning our AM game drive surprisingly concluded with “breakfast in the bush.” The staff set up mobile food stations, tables, chairs, and place settings out in a quaint little clearing where the guests in each vehicle sat together to dine with the guides and trackers.
It was a nice time to get to know each other without the loud cranking of the Land Rover engine impeding conversation. Genuine conversation. I asked Phanuel about his training: what it takes to become a “senior tracker” (there are evidently only a few handful/s in the country) besides 20+ years of experience. In so-so English, he recounted one particularly memorable story of training in the bush with his tracker mentor. He found himself staring down a lion (who wasn’t at all pleased with Phanuel’s proximity) from 50 meters away. The lion growled, then initiated a “mock charge” (a fake attack). Phanuel said every fiber in his body and thought in his mind urged him to flee. But you run and you’re dead; 50 meters is nothing for a lion to make a kill. His mentor literally grounded Phanuel in position by grabbing and holding his belt. Moments passed, the lion eventually relaxed, and the pair of trackers slowly retreated. “It was terrible,” he said, using his go-to catchphrase Candice and I found most humorous.Interested in more information on travel to South Africa? Click here.
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If you thought camping was only for those with a gas stove, granola bars and a desire to sleep amongst grubs on the ground, then think again. “Glamping” –a uniquely Australian term combining “glamour” and “camping” – well describes a more comfort-focused approach to sleeping under canvas.
Surely the most well-known place for glamping is in the Australian Outback at Longitude 131, overlooking Ayers Rock in the center of the red desert. Described as a “luxury wilderness camp,” Longitude 131 features 15 white tents in a line along the desert, each with a King bed, air conditioning, Bose sound system with iPod dock, private bathroom, bathrobes and evening turn-down service. This is camping like you’ve never experienced (unless you’ve been on a luxury tented safari excursion in Africa.)
We’re not the only ones in love with Longitude 131. The Qantas Australian Tourism Awards recently honored Longitude 131 as the winner in its Unique Accommodations category. These awards are presented once per year to outstanding properties that typify the best in their category. Longitude 131 sits next to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, with its well known Ayers Rock and the Olgas, massive red rock formations that attract droves of tourists to this remote desert outpost. Rates at the lodge include all meals and a full touring program that separates you from the tourist crowds, delving deeper into the significance of the region and the beauty of the austere landscape. Fine meals round out the experience, with the opportunity to dine under the massive Outback sky under a canopy of stars. And at the end of the day, you tuck into comfortable bed in your fully-appointed tent. No sleeping bags necessary.
One of the many unique and exhilarating experiences that Down Under Endeavours has to offer to its clients, Longitude 131 is the pinnacle of “glamping” in a region that is historically and geologically significant.
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